Buying a Used Car: What Smart Buyers Always Check

Buying a used car in the UK can save you thousands of pounds compared to going brand new. Whether you're a first-time buyer or just looking to avoid that dreaded depreciation hit, there are plenty of good reasons to go second-hand.

But we’ll be the first to call out the elephant in the room: there’s risk involved. Faulty brakes, clocked mileage, hidden accident history… these things don’t always show up on the surface. And once you’ve handed over your money, they’re your problem.
That’s why knowing exactly what to look for matters.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to check before buying a used car, so you can drive away with peace of mind, not a problem on wheels.

The benefits of buying a used car in the UK

The UK recorded 2.02 million used car transactions in the first quarter of 2025, which marks the ninth consecutive quarter of growth. In 2025, the UK’s used car market will reach USD 64.92 billion, up from USD 57.32 billion in 2024. And from 2025 to 2030, it’s projected to grow at a CAGR of 11.7%.

Compared to brand new cars, the second-hand market remains larger in both value and volume. And it’s got a considerably higher growth rate projected over the next five years.

Bottom line is, buying a used car is a smart move for anyone who wants to avoid the financial sting of new car ownership, while still getting a reliable vehicle that does the job.

Here’s why it makes sense for millions of UK drivers:

Lower purchase price

This is the obvious one. Used cars cost significantly less than new ones, even if they’re only a couple of years old. You can often get a higher-spec model for the same money you'd spend on a brand-new basic trim.

Avoid depreciation

New cars lose value quickly — up to 50% in the first three years. With a used car, that big initial drop has already happened. You’re getting more stable value for your money and less risk if you decide to sell later on.

Cheaper insurance

Insurance premiums are commonly lower for used cars, especially older models with lower market value. That can make a noticeable difference in your monthly running costs, considering the average insurance premium between January and March 2025 was £418.

Wider range within budget

The used market gives you access to more brands, models, and features within your price range. Instead of settling for a new car with no extras, you might find a two-year-old version with heated seats, sat nav, and a sunroof, all for less.

Lower road tax (in some cases)

If you’re buying a car registered before April 2017, you could benefit from lower Vehicle Excise Duty (VED), depending on the vehicle’s CO₂ emissions. It’s another way to keep long-term ownership costs down.

Greener choice

Extending a car’s life by buying used helps reduce the environmental impact tied to new car production. If sustainability matters to you, this is a solid reason to go pre-owned, so long as you aren’t buying a much older car with bad emissions.

The golden rule: always start with the car’s history

Before you look at tyres, paintwork, or even the engine, start with the car’s past. A clean history tells you a lot more than a shiny bonnet ever could. If there’s anything dodgy lurking in the background (outstanding finance, a major accident, or mileage inconsistencies), you want to know before you hand over a penny.

1. Check the MOT history online.

This one’s quick, free, and incredibly revealing.

Head to the official government MOT checker or use this free online tool at Garage.co.uk and enter the vehicle’s registration number. You’ll get a full breakdown of:

• Pass/fail results going back several years
• Mileage at each test (great for spotting rollbacks)
• Advisory notes, like worn tyres or brake issues
• Whether the car’s been off the road (SORN)

Look for patterns. A car that just scrapes through every MOT with long lists of advisories indicates poor maintenance. On the other hand, a solid pass record with clean advisories is a good sign of a well-looked-after motor.

2. Verify the V5C logbook.

The V5C logbook is the car’s official vehicle registration certificate. It proves who the registered keeper is (not necessarily the legal owner, but the person responsible for taxing and insuring the car).

Here’s what to check:

• Match the details: The registration number, VIN (Vehicle Identification Number), and engine number on the logbook should match what’s physically on the car. If anything doesn’t line up, walk away.
• Registered keeper’s address: It should match where you’re buying the car from. Be wary of sellers who ask to meet in a car park or petrol station, particularly if the address on the logbook is different.
• Number of previous owners: Too many owners in a short time can be a red flag. It could mean the car has hidden issues people keep passing on.
• Watermarks and authenticity: Make sure the V5C is the official red form with a DVLA watermark. If it looks like a photocopy or has any signs of tampering, don’t trust it.

Technically, you can buy a car without a V5C. But we advise against it because it’s a sign that the car might be stolen. If the seller says they’ve "lost it" or are "waiting for a new one,” it’s better to wait until they get a new one (which only costs £25 and gets delivered within 5 working days).

3. Confirm the mileage with MOT + service records.

Clocking a car (manually rolling back the odometer) isn’t as common as it once was, but it still happens. And even if it hasn’t been tampered with, mileage alone won’t tell you everything. You need to verify it across multiple records.

Here’s how to check it properly:

• MOT history: Look for consistent mileage increases year over year. It’s listed on every MOT certificate and is available when you do an online MOT history check. If the numbers drop or look suspiciously flat, that raises a red flag.
• Service book or digital records: A well-kept car should have stamps or digital entries showing oil changes, filter replacements, or inspections every 10,000-15,000 miles. Check that the mileage in those records lines up with the MOT timeline.
• Garage receipts: Bonus points if the seller has receipts from mechanics or dealerships that list mileage at the time of work.

If the mileage seems low for the age of the car but there’s no paperwork to back it up, it’s not a guarantee that something’s wrong, but it’s worth investigating further.

4. Run a full vehicle history check.

A full history check is one of the smartest things you can do before buying a used car. It gives you the full picture, far beyond what the seller or free online check might be telling you.

You can use services like HPI Check, carVertical, or the AA’s vehicle history tool. They typically cost £10 to £20, and it’s money well spent.

Here’s what a proper check will reveal:

• Outstanding finance: If the car’s still under a finance agreement, it technically belongs to the lender. You could lose the car if it’s repossessed after you buy it.
• Insurance write-off status: If it’s ever been declared a Cat S (structural damage) or Cat N (non-structural), you need to know. Some write-offs are fixed well, others are disasters waiting to happen.
• Stolen vehicle checks: If the car has been reported stolen, it won’t be legally yours no matter how much you paid.
• Mileage discrepancies: These services compare mileage from MOTs, service records, and previous sales listings to detect odometer fraud.
• Number of previous owners: Useful for judging how much the car’s been passed around.
  Scrapped or exported status: Some dodgy cars are meant to be off the road entirely but still end up for sale.

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Physical inspection checklist: what to check and where

A proper in-person inspection is about surfacing signs of neglect, hidden damage, and expensive repairs waiting to happen. Whether you’re buying from a dealership or a private seller, take your time.

Exterior condition

Start by walking around the entire car in good daylight. You’re checking for damage, inconsistency, and signs of a rushed repair.

Look out for:

Under the bonnet

You don’t need to be a mechanic, but a quick look under the bonnet can tell you a lot. It speaks to potential performance issues and maintenance neglect that could ruin the car.

These repairs are some of the most expensive to make later on, so missing them means you might spend just as much as (or more than) you would have if you’d just bought a car new.

Look for the following:

• Low oil, coolant, and brake fluid levels
• Sludgy or black-coloured oil
• Engine and radiator leaks
• Old or corroded batteries
• Cracked or frayed belts and hoses

Interior condition

The inside of the car should match the mileage and the seller’s story. You wouldn’t expect a low-mileage car to have a beaten-up interior. You also don’t want to pay a premium for a car with cigarette burns or broken electronics.

Inspect for the following issues:

Under the car

If you can safely get low enough or ask the seller to put it on a ramp, looking underneath the car will reveal leaks, rust, and loose components. If there’s a serious mechanical or structural issue, you won’t see it anywhere else, and those are expensive to fix.

Pay attention to:

• Fluid leaks
• Rust on the chassis
• Rusting or deformed suspension and exhaust
• Broken, loose, or leaking suspension components
• Corroded or damaged brake lines
• Bulging or cracked tyre sidewalls

The test drive: what smart buyers listen and feel for

After a physical inspection, a proper test drive is your chance to catch problems in motion. Strange noises, stiff steering, or sluggish performance won’t show up until the car is turned on and moving. Listen carefully, feel everything, and don’t rush.

Starting the car cold

Starting a car from cold is one of the best ways to detect hidden engine or battery problems. A warm engine can mask starting issues, strange noises, or excessive smoke. Sellers sometimes run the car before you arrive, so don’t let them. 

1. Ask the seller not to start the car before you arrive. Make this clear when arranging the viewing.
2. When you get there, feel the bonnet. If it’s warm, the car’s already been running.
3. Start the engine yourself. Listen for hesitation, rattling, or knocking.
4. Watch the dashboard: do all warning lights turn on, then go out after ignition?
5. Check the exhaust for excessive smoke; blue (burning oil), white (coolant), or black (fuel-rich) smoke mean trouble.

Pay attention here to warning lights that stay on the dashboard after ignition.

Braking test

Brakes are your first line of safety. If they’re weak, unbalanced, or noisy, you're not just looking at a repair bill, you’re looking at a serious risk to yourself and others. Test them properly during your drive, not just at low speeds.

Start by building up to 30–40 mph on a quiet, straight road. Apply the brakes firmly but smoothly. There’s no need to slam, but don’t be gentle either.

Pay attention to how the car behaves:

• Does it pull to one side? Could mean seized calipers or uneven brake wear.
• Is there any juddering through the pedal? That’s a potentially warped brake disc.
• Do you hear any squealing or grinding? There’s a sign the pads or discs are worn out.

Check the brake pedal feel; it should be responsive, not spongy or overly stiff.

Steering and suspension

Worn steering or suspension components make the car feel unstable and potentially unsafe at speed. You’ll also feel every bump and pothole a whole lot more. A solid suspension setup should feel planted and responsive, and it should feel stable around corners.

Once you start moving:

• Let go of the steering wheel briefly on a wide, flat road (safely) to check if the car pulls to one side. If it does, the wheels are poorly aligned.
• Turn the wheel at low speeds (like in a car park). Listen for any knocks, creaks, or clunks, which are signs of worn ball joints or bushings.
• On speed bumps or dips, notice whether the car bounces once (normal) or keeps bouncing (worn shock absorbers).

Ideally, you should also drive on a mix of road surfaces that includes some uneven or slightly bumpy roads.

Gears and clutch

Gearbox and clutch problems make driving miserable and, like other major problems, potentially cause MOT failures and are expensive to fix. A good gearbox should shift smoothly, and the clutch should engage cleanly without weird noises or resistance.

With the engine running, press the clutch pedal. It shouldn’t feel stiff, spongy, or noisy.

Then, when you put the car in first gear, it should engage easily with no crunching or resistance. During the drive, go through all the gears, listening and feeling for shifting without grinding or sticking and difficulty getting into reverse or the next gear

When pulling away, see where the clutch “bites”. This is where you’ll feel the feedback from the pedal and there’ll be slight vibrations through the pedal. A high biting point may mean the clutch is worn and near the end of its life.

Try a hill start if possible. If the clutch slips (revs rise but speed doesn’t), you’re looking at an imminent clutch replacement.

Legal and ownership checks you should never skip

You could inspect a used car to perfection, but if the legal side isn’t right, none of that matters. These checks protect you from fraud, theft, and unexpected financial headaches after the sale. Miss them, and you could lose both the car and your money.

Confirm the seller's identity

This one’s simple, but crucial because it’s where a lot of car-buying scams start.

Ask to see photo ID (like a driving licence) and check it against the name and address on the V5C logbook. If the seller refuses to show ID, then won’t let you view the car at their address or claims to be “selling it for a mate”, it’s better to walk away. It could be stolen or cloned.

Outstanding finance

Cars bought on finance (like PCP or HP) don’t legally belong to the driver until the final payment is made. That means that if you buy a car with active finance, you risk losing it because the finance company still owns it.

Figuring this out is simple. Just use a paid vehicle history check (like HPI or CarVertical) to see if there’s finance outstanding.

Is the car a Category C, D, S, or N write-off?

Written-off cars are ones that insurers have decided aren’t worth the cost of repair. You won’t find a Cat A or B car for sale, but other write-off categories will still make it back onto the road legally.

Here’s what the categories mean in the UK:

• Cat S (Structural): Repaired after structural damage. Buying a Cat S car requires proper inspection; repairs may be safe or bodged.
• Cat N (non-structural): Cosmetic or electrical damage. You’ll need to check the electronics closely.
• Cat C or D: Older versions of S and N. Same idea, but used on cars written off before October 2017.
• Not all write-offs are bad buys. But they must be priced lower, fully repaired and, by law, honestly declared. 

Questions smart buyers always ask the seller

We’re not saying you have to interrogate the owner of the vehicle. But the way a seller answers your questions can reveal just as much as the condition of the car itself.
Be polite, but firm when you ask the following questions:

Why are you selling the car?

This is a classic for a reason. You’re not just listening to what they say, but how they say it. Genuine sellers often have a clear reason: upgrading, downgrading, moving abroad, or they no longer need it. Vague or overly rehearsed answers might mean they’re hiding a problem.

How long have you owned it?

A seller who’s only had the car for a few weeks should raise eyebrows. Are they flipping it? Trying to offload something with hidden issues? A longer ownership period usually means they know the car well and are more likely to be honest about its history.

Can I see the service history?

If they say “I think it’s around somewhere” or “It’s all online”, push for details. A car with no service records is a gamble. You want to see receipts or a stamped service book showing regular maintenance. It’s one of the clearest signs of how well the car’s been looked after.

Has it ever been in an accident?

Ask this directly and watch the reaction to see if the seller hesitates or avoids eye contact. Even minor crashes should be disclosed. And if they say “not that I know of”, take that as a cue to double-check with a vehicle history report.

Paperwork and payment: don’t get caught out

You've done the inspection, asked the right questions, and you're ready to buy, but you’re not out of the woods just yet. The final step is where lots of buyers slip up. To protect yourself legally and financially, you need to handle the paperwork and payment properly.

Complete the V5C transfer properly.

The V5C logbook must be updated to reflect the change of ownership. The seller is responsible for this.

They must:

• Fill out Section 2 of the V5C with your details and the date of sale.
• Hand you the “new keeper slip” (also called Section 6 or 10, depending on the form version). You cannot tax your new vehicle without this slip.
• Send the remaining part of the V5C to the DVLA by post.

Alternatively, both of you can complete the transfer online via the GOV.UK sold/transferred/bought vehicle service. This is faster and you’ll usually get confirmation by email within minutes.

Payment methods: bank transfer vs. cash

When you’re buying a used car, bank transfer is the safest and most traceable option. You’ll have a digital record of the payment, and most UK banks offer instant transfers.

Cash can work, but only if you're confident the seller is legit. Count it in front of them, get a receipt, and ideally bring a witness. It’s not a good idea to carry large amounts of cash to a private address alone.

Get a receipt, even for private sales.

Always get a written receipt signed by both parties. It should include:

• The date of sale
• Vehicle registration number
• Make and model
• Agreed sale price
• Names and addresses of the buyer and seller
• A statement that the car is “sold as seen, tried and approved by the buyer”

Even a simple handwritten document will do. This protects both sides and could save you serious headaches later.

The bottom line

Buying a used car in the UK is one of the smartest financial moves you can make, but only if you do it right. Don’t let a shiny exterior or a pushy seller rush your decision. A proper inspection, a verified history, and clean paperwork are non-negotiables to being a well-informed buyer.

Take your time. Ask direct questions. Trust the data, not the sales pitch. And remember: if something feels off, it probably is.